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Forget Standard Midi Controllers For Live Sets...
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Screwhead replied on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 8:16am
screwhead
Coolness: 685720
...I want to see a live with one of these!

I'm feeling over 9000 right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» SourUltraFast replied on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 9:58am
sourultrafast
Coolness: 91520
must hurt after a while
I'm feeling all like kaakow! right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» JasonBeastly replied on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 3:24pm
jasonbeastly
Coolness: 76840
You need:

-Max/MSP
-iCube or eCube MIDI box with CV inputs
-piezoelectric microphones or CV motion sensors (it's likely he has something that sends electricity and receives it as well, and I would assume that the sensors are easily found after some research and consultation with your local IMCA-dept at your local University - you probably want to be a member of the CDA)
-tape
-patience and a good sense of which signals you need to filter and focus on

You start up a bunch of Max/MSP input machines to read the voltage changes and calibrate them until they are in an appropriate range. Velocity is likely what you want to map this to, then you want to install filter machines that interpret this into a certain range on your wavetable. The most important thing is what sort of sensors you have and what ranges of frequency give you the most response. If you do it with contact mics you would be able to calibrate for velocity and frequency separately. It's a lot easier than it looks but you need to find the gear first, which is expensive unless you are enrolled in University in an appropriate multi- or inter-media program.
I'm feeling sunless right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Kuzutetsu replied on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 6:30pm
kuzutetsu
Coolness: 133165
Sick Shit! (0_0)
I'm feeling bored as fuck right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» cutterhead replied on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 7:04pm
cutterhead
Coolness: 131725
Originally Posted By LUKEPERIL

You need:

-Max/MSP
-iCube or eCube MIDI box with CV inputs
-piezoelectric microphones or CV motion sensors (it's likely he has something that sends electricity and receives it as well, and I would assume that the sensors are easily found after some research and consultation with your local IMCA-dept at your local University - you probably want to be a member of the CDA)
-tape
-patience and a good sense of which signals you need to filter and focus on

You start up a bunch of Max/MSP input machines to read the voltage changes and calibrate them until they are in an appropriate range. Velocity is likely what you want to map this to, then you want to install filter machines that interpret this into a certain range on your wavetable. The most important thing is what sort of sensors you have and what ranges of frequency give you the most response. If you do it with contact mics you would be able to calibrate for velocity and frequency separately. It's a lot easier than it looks but you need to find the gear first, which is expensive unless you are enrolled in University in an appropriate multi- or inter-media program.


their are cheaper approaches. like wayy cheaper, and u dont need a mba or univeristy bill up yer ass.

i have studies static body currents, shure you could user high tech squid like sensor for brain imagery, but this shit what u see in that vid, can be done with a current analog watchdog to digital,
/w delayed line.

retail very cheap, will cost you a week work, an u output the signals to solidstate relays that
feed you midi keyboard switch, that way you will save on the midi controller from scratch.

i have to admit that making the controller incorporated into a pic you could use the raw feed
of the ADC and use the internal registers to program the delay ; saves you the relays... witch can become costy if you dont know where to get em..

so , wires, adc converter, pic, few .001 pico farad / .1 micro farad caps , and some tiny resistors / diodes so you dont feed currents raw from the wall outlet to your face ; maby isolate with a set of optocoupler.

just in case you dont want to receive the jolts the day one diode/cap decide to leak

or use the midikeyboard powersupply, most of the time they are feed by an isolated 12v /1a not enough
to bake the zits
Update » cutterhead wrote on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 7:10pm
i would use thermal resistor to feed active amps to Analog to digital converters then use a 4 input AND gate / OR gate / Xor gate switch to have some preset fun, then feed this to a solid state relay, then feed the new Xacto carved port on my roland /or something box or key of a mifi keyb.
Update » cutterhead wrote on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 7:11pm
strippers are the number one customers for this
I'm feeling 4.5kw 240vrms 45a right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» ApR1zM replied on Sun Oct 26, 2008 @ 11:03pm
apr1zm
Coolness: 164930
i read somewhere also a way to use the webcam as a midi controller by just moving in front of it with a light to make it a X-y and even Z controller :D
I'm feeling failling pailing right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Kishmay_Pinas replied on Mon Oct 27, 2008 @ 12:23am
kishmay_pinas
Coolness: 103385
fuck i just found out I can set up using remote buddy and a wiimote, I can turn a wii mote into a midi controller
I'm feeling in a meeting @ barin right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» databoy replied on Mon Oct 27, 2008 @ 11:14am
databoy
Coolness: 106245
Originally Posted By LUKEPERIL

You need:

-Max/MSP
-iCube or eCube MIDI box with CV inputs
-piezoelectric microphones or CV motion sensors (it's likely he has something that sends electricity and receives it as well, and I would assume that the sensors are easily found after some research and consultation with your local IMCA-dept at your local University - you probably want to be a member of the CDA)
-tape
-patience and a good sense of which signals you need to filter and focus on

You start up a bunch of Max/MSP input machines to read the voltage changes and calibrate them until they are in an appropriate range. Velocity is likely what you want to map this to, then you want to install filter machines that interpret this into a certain range on your wavetable. The most important thing is what sort of sensors you have and what ranges of frequency give you the most response. If you do it with contact mics you would be able to calibrate for velocity and frequency separately. It's a lot easier than it looks but you need to find the gear first, which is expensive unless you are enrolled in University in an appropriate multi- or inter-media program.


Or...

You tape some wires to your face, set up a webcam, press play on that blipidy bleepy song you just produced (or found), and twitch.
I'm feeling love right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» JasonBeastly replied on Mon Oct 27, 2008 @ 12:16pm
jasonbeastly
Coolness: 76840
Originally Posted By CUTTERHEAD

Originally Posted By lukeperil
You need:

-Max/MSP
-iCube or eCube MIDI box with CV inputs
-piezoelectric microphones or CV motion sensors (it's likely he has something that sends electricity and receives it as well, and I would assume that the sensors are easily found after some research and consultation with your local IMCA-dept at your local University - you probably want to be a member of the CDA)
-tape
-patience and a good sense of which signals you need to filter and focus on

You start up a bunch of Max/MSP input machines to read the voltage changes and calibrate them until they are in an appropriate range. Velocity is likely what you want to map this to, then you want to install filter machines that interpret this into a certain range on your wavetable. The most important thing is what sort of sensors you have and what ranges of frequency give you the most response. If you do it with contact mics you would be able to calibrate for velocity and frequency separately. It's a lot easier than it looks but you need to find the gear first, which is expensive unless you are enrolled in University in an appropriate multi- or inter-media program.


their are cheaper approaches. like wayy cheaper, and u dont need a mba or univeristy bill up yer ass.

i have studies static body currents, shure you could user high tech squid like sensor for brain imagery, but this shit what u see in that vid, can be done with a current analog watchdog to digital,
/w delayed line.

retail very cheap, will cost you a week work, an u output the signals to solidstate relays that
feed you midi keyboard switch, that way you will save on the midi controller from scratch.

i have to admit that making the controller incorporated into a pic you could use the raw feed
of the ADC and use the internal registers to program the delay ; saves you the relays... witch can become costy if you dont know where to get em..

so , wires, adc converter, pic, few .001 pico farad / .1 micro farad caps , and some tiny resistors / diodes so you dont feed currents raw from the wall outlet to your face ; maby isolate with a set of optocoupler.

just in case you dont want to receive the jolts the day one diode/cap decide to leak

or use the midikeyboard powersupply, most of the time they are feed by an isolated 12v /1a not enough
to bake the zits


I concede there are cheaper approaches, I gave the one I'm familiar with. I've tested it and everything. Can't remember the PD code or the names of the objects in Max, but the setup is easy. I had the privelege of having the box with cv adaptors, this is probably shit easy to hack together. You can very easily just run voltage into any sort of input box, and I'm sure there are tons of cost-efficient approaches that don't involve MIDI. But I personally have tried something like this with sensor strips that react to how much your finger bends, which run via a cable to the CV to MIDI adaptor, then you just have to plug together a few easy boxes and you have a system you can set up with anything, video effects, your wavetable, a sine wave generator, the FM PW sync of a rather complicated synth (in this case you could even use a Nord G2) which would create hoovers... etc. Neko, I'm enthralled, please tell me more about how I could avoid having to pay my $50 CDA fee to get access to labs and just do this at home. The only part I really need clarification on is the nature of the sensors and how exactly they work.
I'm feeling sunless right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» cutterhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 4:51am
cutterhead
Coolness: 131725
loll. you did this in your lab. cheers man!!! peps must have laugh... and teacher tought u were high again :D

first have you read this ? [ en.wikipedia.org ]
so the body is like a mixture that can be tapped from passive state to active
the stuff you want is in > Electrodes for medical purposes, such as EEG, ECG, ECT, defibrillator

now remember the dead jolting frog ?

motors act both ways. just that the frog thing, we go about 100-1000 + orders of magnetude to high.
enought to burn and kill muscle response, rememberr how that leg in the end didnt jolt as quick XD

my theory combining that in reverse and the joule law .
the problem is taping the rite signal, to have fast response.

a thermic probe : metal heating rezistance going down . will probably be too slow, and to get
presision , ill never happen, this is why in encryption we use the mil_th digit to get the random
number : it always moving... but then again could work on some spaced contact to the skin and act
as a switch with a real contact on / off but having a really active metal this could work
so using the collector or base of the transisor, with a fixed lenght lenght . you could start and have
a good peek. the problem now is getting away from the body static feed.

the best tap would be a arbritrary lengh of metal. really important you respect lengh or else the
project will fail, having improper delay and resonance difference ie one probe @ 120mhz the other @ 80 mhz the other @ 10 khz

human body static is pretty weird its shifted in different part of the body.

you left side is neutral, right is negative and bottom torso is positive, as i remember..
this image isnt right

lots of junk on the net...
this one is


the currents are into an inverted triangle on the torso.

now since you know about the standing wave of the body and are somewhat aware of the phaseshift
durring nerv calls.

you want to track the spasm

isolate the noise

traping phase shift/ voltage increase and current hi/drops, isnt one or one options, you need to either triangulate the 3 and with a differentiator get the pike you whant at the end. much
like who you would decode radar signals.

this looks like expensive but isnt. think big system procedure, smaller scale.

your pickup will just rely on some isolation of the pulse.
you could chainlink and use a differentiator by combining the average to peek/drop



or you could

only trap one local jolt finding the best placement



then use am ratio aplification, but instead of using just the resonator,

i would drop the signal into the am loop, by diode isolation.

the feed that signal to a AD converter like i said . and get more controle on the byte / noise code.

if you get incremental serial word i can get even better, but the logics you would use would get
the thing workable either for you only, or for a broad range of users.

have pots on all stage of amplification , and variables pieces will let you play on all the metrics of its, because you do whan key-press timing control right?

then getting back to the active part of the pickup, before am amplification (im using the am radio as an example but you could get the modulation out, but then it changes lots on the pickup action, it would have to have a cristal timed / accute active resonator on each input line.) we sould decide
an centimiter lengh probe. (ISOLATED_I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH)
and a 29 centimiter lengh wire TILL the logic circuit stage amp.

so using the meter law.
you can now use your centimter *3 as a resonance pickup.
centimiter isnt that precise since body use higher frequency , but at this lenght its still
*playable*

one yould also use the am loop feed to two superposed disk on thin paper (rice paper would work good
i think), then use the disk as pickups.

the two local passive pickups above will generate the noise as well, so this is why your loop must
either have a phashed pull while maintaining the resonance, or resonate at noise frequency. and
then u would just amplify to get the jolt

using the 5millimeter tip of the collector or base as near as the skin would get you an almost real
active pickup (ie disk were electrosensitive...)

start at somthing above gama, beta and alpha is plain stupid and would cost you in the millions
to get a magnet big enought to phase pull somthing.

anyways .. or one could just read this :D

[ reader.feedshow.com ]

enjoy erik, i know you will.

now i could get to draw circuits and all but ill give you this as a starter. more to come if you want. ?!

neko
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 4:56am
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 5:04am

... quaduple short expresso with sugar plz, no crem/milk actually :D
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:26am
[ www.eelab.usyd.edu.au ] could help..

[ robotics.hulcoop.com ] this more




anyways ... i need an hexa-expresso in a cup, i wonder if the girl at the counter will get it first hand ..
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:27am
repost the link was fuck sorry

[ robotics.hulcoop.com ]
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:33am
lots of plans to get you work the solder. and really dont make a print circuit , if you want
absolutely to make one instead of microwire,

use a permanent felt, like the one use on acetates show, black body marker with colored cap,
with a letter on top that say either F, M, B, ... well use a premanent , red is the best,
on your clad, mark what you want to keep down,

the rest will disolv in the acid bath when you will dump.
i takes 1 to 3 to 15 minutes depending on your mix, but ill let you do trial an error on this one...

otherwise just use microwire for gawd sake
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:40am
oh and pots on everything, will get you 10% of accuracy compare to 100% if you nail the right resistor to a 5% +/- depending on the quality worse is 15 +/- somtime 35 !!

so get presision resitors -called fuse resistors-

and if you use variable caps and resistor, be sure their contact are top notch (hehe lol)
else the contact isnt soldered and generate a capacitance that can be greater than the
overall circuit
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:43am
you could always just mix comercial vinyl, not care about music and the people in the industry and art scene and ignor the midifunction in froothy and reason, and use presetted reaktor...

You tape some wires to your face, set up a webcam, press play on that blipidy bleepy song you just produced (or found), and twitch.

and never look at your mama in the face ever again for being such a fraud. come one like we didnt doupt it...
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:50am
and get the mainstream appliance the industry wants you to have

Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:52am
erik, read on how the powerglove worked.

they were long strip of metal, and when the finger bented the resisor changed,

thats the easyest solution ,and can be done with same electrical and two gloves one onto the other
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 7:54am
im so happy my post look like an nonstandard piece of never be essay puke
I'm feeling 4.5kw 240vrms 45a right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Screwhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 8:32am
screwhead
Coolness: 685720
Originally Posted By CUTTERHEAD

erik, read on how the powerglove worked.

they were long strip of metal, and when the finger bented the resisor changed,


Avtually, it was little flexible tubes filled with ink that changed resistance when it was bent.
I'm feeling over 9000 right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» cutterhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 9:40am
cutterhead
Coolness: 131725
mine had strips buddy
I'm feeling 4.5kw 240vrms 45a right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Screwhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 9:52am
screwhead
Coolness: 685720
I hacked one and wired it into my 286 back in 94-95 and got everything working using a book called Garage Virtual Reality

from [ www.angelfire.com ] :
To attack the problem of sensing finger movement, Mattel and AGE engineers first sought cheaper materials than fiber optics and photo resistors. Light sources gave way to conductive properties. They thought they found a solution, Gentile recalls, in using conductive rubber, but the rubber didn't return to its prior shape quickly enough. Finally, they found a conductive ink that was supposed to be used to build flexible circuit boards.
.
The conductive ink, it turned out, didn't work well on circuit boards because its conductive properties changed when it was bent. This detriment to circuit building, however, was exactly what AGE engineers were looking for: An inexpensive way of calculating movement -- two layers of the ink became a sensor.
I'm feeling over 9000 right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» cutterhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:12am
cutterhead
Coolness: 131725
are you saying that im lying ?

i had one and mine where 2 conductive strips, one top of each other with translucent film in between

when closing the hand the resistance went down . i took the finger apart myself. and rig it to my

serial port and parallel port. had the two because i had two drivers.

i never thought nintendo made different models, i never got any "ink" but i had strip you had ink what can i say, seems you want me to shut up again on this one
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:17am
How to build an instrumented glove based on the Powerglove flex sensors.

Axel Mulder, School of Kinesiology, Simon Fraser University

This text is published in PCVR 16 pp 10-14. Stoughton, WI, USA: PCVR Magazine, 1994.

© Copyright 1994 Axel Mulder. All rights reserved.

You can get this paper including the software and pictures through anonymous ftp.

Introduction

I have always found it a challenge to make things at virtually no hardware cost, using old parts in innovative combinations. Whilst such projects are usually quite time consuming, they do give you the pleasure of "being independent of the industry" and their picture of the state of the art of technology. Although I wouldn't claim any state of the art for the project described below, I still think it is of value for many an "independent technerd" or even an "independent artist", of which there seem to be a growing number.

But let's get practical. The text below describes how I went about making a real cheap glove interface, that still achieves considerable accuracy while improving the comfortability. Essentially, I purchased a bunch of PowerGloves (PG's), took out the flex sensors, inserted them in sheaths on a lycra glove and suit, hooked them up with a multi-channel serial A/D converter and had a host computer sequentially query the serial interface for the value of each sensor in real-time. These values then were used to control various electronic musical devices.

PG sensors

To obtain the PG sensors, make an incision (it almost feels like surgery) inbetween the middle- and the ringfinger and inbetween the index and the thumb, in the glove's grey soft plastic material. The sensors can be pulled out, sometimes with quite some force (don't worry, they are quite robust, but don't fold them over sharply), because the sensors are secured in a transparent plastic sheath. Then they have to be desoldered.

The PG sensors are sensitive to flex in one direction only. The principle behind the sensors is fairly simple: one side of the substrate of the sensor is coated with a high resistance ink that increases resistance when stretched. Over this ink patches of low resistance ink are deposited, such that only small transversal strips of the high resistance ink contribute to the stretch effect. The stretch is effected by bending the sensor; one side of the sensor will stretch (a little bit) whilst the other side will compress (a little bit). Unfortunately the ink is far more sensitive to stretch than to compression, hence the unidirectionality. This non-linear behaviour extends into ca. the first 15 degrees of the sensitive direction. Beyond that the resistance changes linearly with the angle and ranges from ca. 100 kOhm to 500 kOhm. In order to avoid this non-linearity it is advisable to employ some sort of pre-loading of the sensor, i.e. to have the sensor flexed, although the joint is actually straight. The angular range of a sensor is more than enough for unidirectional angle measurement of almost any human joint. For bidirectional joint movements it is necessary to join two PG sensors back to back. The sensor is by no means calibrated, so that each sensor has its own angle vs. resistance relationship.

It is important to note that the technique of a flex sensor that measures the jointangle by simple mechanical transfer of the joint angle is quite limited. For instance, it is quite difficult to measure the movements of the thumb's carpo-metacarpal joint, with its many degrees of freedom, accurately with a flex sensor, due to skinmotions and the presence of tendons. The metacarpo-phalangeal joints of the index, middle- and ringfinger do not lend themselves very well for this technique either, due to tendons that move under the skin and skinmotions. Ab- and adduction of fingers may be possible by putting a sensor on its side so that it is bent almost 180 degrees - this is the way it is done in the Virtex Cyberglove from Jim Kramer at Stanford.

For finger joints it is necessary to have shorter sensor lengths. This can fairly easily be done by cutting the sensor in 2 or 3 parts and attaching new leads. This of course will affect the resistance range of the sensor. Making proper galvanic contact with the sensor's low resistance conductive ink is not a trivial problem however. My first try was to drill tiny holes (less than 1 mm diameter), put a wire through them, fold the wire over and stabilize it with conductive epoxy glue and regular epoxy glue.. This will hold for quite a while, but the hardening of the epoxy will sooner or later screw up the bond, as the sensor substrate keeps on flexing. Lately I have re-examined the problem and used conductive silicone glue, which remains more flexible, to attach a tiny sheet of folded metal (which fits over one end of the sensor) with a tiny hole in it. Drilling a tiny hole through the sensor and putting a wire through the hole and then soldering it on both sides of the sensor stabilizes the connection very well, whilst still keeping things small (click here to see a picture of this). The mini-scale of things requires proper selection of wires too. I have used coaxial cable with teflon isolation of ca. 2 mm diameter, but this may be hard to obtain. It should be equally possible to use twisted pair wires (e.g. wires used in nerve stimulation experiments), as longs as they are kept short. It is recommendable to cover the lead-sensor interface with some heat-shrink tube.

The sensor surface, after attaching leads, should be properly insulated to avoid galvanic contact with the skin, e.g. by spraying some plastic on the surface. It is also possible to use more heat-shrink tube, but this may further increase the stiffness of the sensor, whilst the sensor is already quite stiff. Last but not least it is good practice to shield the sensor, as it is a high impedant device, from the ever present electromagnetic interference by attaching or perhaps spraying a highly conductive layer on both sides of the sensor and (virtually) grounding this layer, i.e. keeping it at zero potential. Whilst some of the above suggestions may not be easy to implement, they may provide a possible solution if a simpler implementation is working insufficiently. I have spent some effort in locating the manufacturers of the sensor, but unsuccesful. A company called Amtec was mentioned many times in Internet Newsgroups as the manufacturer, but they don't seem to exist.

Serial A/D Converter

The serial A/D converter was initially based on an design published in Elektuur (Elektor), a dutch electronics magazine. However, besides some serious errors in their design, I also needed a faster A/D chip. Thus I made a new design (click here for a picture of the main schematic) that used the 8 bit AD 7569 with a 2 microsecond conversion cycle (click here for a picture of the timing diagram). This speed would allow me to sample much more channels than I would be using (ever ..). In effect the sampling rate was now not anymore determined by the A/D chip but by the baudrate. Unfortunately, the most common serial interface (RS232) limits the baudrate around 19200 baud (8 databits, no parity, 2 stopbits). It is possible to use higher baudrates, but cable length and proper impedance matching of the serial cable becomes very crucial. Therefore, obtaining the value for one channel takes about 1 ms, so that the sampling rate is ca. 1kHz / #channels. The A/D converter on the mainboard is supplied with channel values via a little board with a multiplexer that connects to the sensors with short wires (click here for a picture of the multiplexer schematic). The 8 PG sensors are connected in series, via the multiplexer, with one resistor, such that the output voltage range of each PG sensor is within the A/D converter input voltage range. This resistor has to be adjusted for different sets of PG sensors. Unfortunately each PG sensor has a different resistance range so that care has to be taken in joining a set of PG sensors, as otherwise the loss of resolution becomes unacceptable.

The resolution is somewhat limited, dependent on the particular joint. The angular range of the joint normally does not use up the available voltage range of the A/D converter (a margin has to be left to allow the joint to flex further than in the calibration phase), whilst each sensor has a different resistance range (see above), so that there is effectively less than 8 bit resolution. For finger joints it is desirable to have ca. 0.5 degree resolution. Whilst the sensor may have a resolution of 0.5 degree, do not confuse this with an accuracy of 0.5 degree. Such accuracy is not easily achieved because of skin movements, unpredictable movements of the sensor, etc.. Of course it is possible to interface other sensors to the A/D converter. In fact, when I first started to work on my ideas for human interfacing, I built a flex sensor by stacking piezo foil layers - super sensitive and very flexible, but also very high impedant (Mulder 1988). As for a PCB of the design: due to the fact that making PCB's is such an incredibly tedious job I have avoided making one upto now. I am "celebrating" the fact that the system is still running on an experimentor's board for more than 6 years now ! (click here for a picture of the power supply schematic)

Software

Somehow I have never been able to become an addict of one particular computer manufacturer. Therefore, I ended up writing code for the IBM PC, the Atari ST and the Apple Mac. This was an especially teeth grinding experience because interrupt programming is a nightmare. Computer manufacturers seem to think that real-time programming is just not an issue, so why bother making their system transparent to programmers in these matters ? Whilst the IBM PC is fairly well documented, I didn't succeed in understanding the Atari ST's interrupt system completely. It is especially the keyboard interrupt that is annoying me. For the Mac I avoided the issue altogether by using the real-time graphical programming environment called MAX, well-known by computer-musicians and musicians who use a computer in their performance. The code that is included with this article should be working, but I decline any responsibility for malfunctioning. I have done my best to make the code work fast, by writing the real-time parts in assembly. Normally, it would be wise to filter the data in software. I have not taken the effort to add code for that. Also, to linearize the sensor it would be easy to write some code that would calibrate values by either simple table look-up or even using formula that approximates the behaviour of the sensor. The code for the IBM PC is written in Borland TurboPascal 5.5 using some of the Blaise Power Tools Plus 5.0 units. Code for the Atari ST is written in Borland C 2.0 and using the included assembler.

Implementing

The description sofar has covered the raw system, but not an actual implementation of it. I have used it for interfacing finger motions via a lycra glove (e.g. from HIND, type Drylete, which I purchased at Sports City in Boston, MA USA) and arm & leg motions via a lycra suit (e.g. used by speed skaters or dancers). The design of a glove or suit that fits comfortably and ensures a proper transfer of the jointmotions to the sensors is almost an art (for a non-cloths-designer). I have sewn sheaths onto the glove and suit in which the sensor fitted. This works better than e.g. glueing the sensor with siliconeglue onto the lycra, which bond wears out too easily. It is difficult to make the sensor stay in the proper location, especially on the smaller joints; skin movements, movements of the lycra, movements of the sensor in the sheath etc. distort the angle measurement. Stiff leads to the sensor can decrease accuracy. Perhaps an idea for sensor stabilization would be to fill the "holes" between your knuckles with some fabric, so that the sensor always stays on top of the joint. But in fact, what is needed is a sensor that is just as flexible and stretchable as our own skin. Last but not least, make sure the sensor is properly insulated, because sweat gets in everywhere.

My main interest is in making music, particularly controlling timbre, with gestures and other body motions. To that purpose I have hooked up an 8 channel glove with a Roland D10 keyboard synthesizer, only to discover that the D10 hardly allows any real-time patch programming. Much more interesting was an experiment and performance with an 8 channel body suit controlling a Lexicon LXP 5 effectsprocessor that processed the voice of the performer. It is weird to affect your voice so directly with such expressive movements of your extremities. For those interested, I have written some of my ideas about this in (Mulder 1992) and (Mulder 1994). Contact me for a copy.

Future improvements

Currently I am building a system that uses a 68HC11 microcontroller to interface (using the Serial Peripheral Interface) a number of serial 10 bit A/D converters, allowing for fewer cables on the body and more resolution. Then I am trying to find a cheap way to make a wireless connection to the host computer. With respect to applications, whilst continuing to work on musical performance through gestures and dance, I am also looking at interfacing a glove or even a suit to a character animation package called LifeForms, that was entirely developed here at Simon Fraser University. Although the human interfacing problem is not solved at all and keeps on eating up my time, I am most interested in thinking about how the future of musical performance will look like and, more generally, what the essential technical characteristics are of human communicating movements, such as gestures. For those interested in the field, a non-technical overview of current glove interfaces can be found in (Sturman 1994).

Further reading and references

Sci.Virtual-Worlds Newsgroup.

Glove-list Listserver (listserv@nas.nasa.gov, a FAQ about the PowerGlove is maintained by the listeditor J.E. Townsend).

(author unknown), (1986). Seriele A/D omzetter. Elektuur, October, pp 74-79.

Eglowstein, H., (1990). Reach out and touch your data, Byte (July) pp 283-290.

Franco, S., (1988). Design with operational amplifiers and analog integrated circuits. New York: McGraw-Hill.

Gardner, D.L., (1989). The powerglove, Design news v45 n23 (December 4) pp 63-68.

Horowitz, P., Hill, W., (1986). The art of electronics. London: Cambridge University Press.

Pallas-Areny, R., Webster, J.G., (1991). Sensors and signal conditioning. New York: Wiley-Interscience.

Mulder, A.G.E., (1988). A piezo-electric flex sensor for a hand gesture interface. Unpublished Masters thesis, Department of Physics, State University Groningen, The Netherlands.

Mulder, A.G.E., (1992). Viewing dance as instrumental to music. Interface (published by ACCAD, Ohio State University, USA) v4 n2 (November) pp 15-17.

Mulder, A.G.E., (1994). Virtual musical instruments: Accessing the sound universe as a performer. .

Sturman, D.J., (1994). A survey of glove-based input. IEEE computer graphics & applications v14 n1 (January) pp 30-39.
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:19am
as stated in the text the plate of copper had a special coating that prevented direct contact but shaped the resistance, so no "tubes" there
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:21am
unless you refer to tube as a scealed space, not a tubulat circle stretched parrallel to an other circle like the interior of a pen
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:24am
far larger than this

Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:28am
this is the exact interior :


I'm feeling 4.5kw 240vrms 45a right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Screwhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:28am
screwhead
Coolness: 685720
from your very own big block of text:

The PG sensors are sensitive to flex in one direction only. *******>>>>>The principle behind the sensors is fairly simple: one side of the substrate of the sensor is coated with a high resistance ink that increases resistance when stretched.<<<<<****** Over this ink patches of low resistance ink are deposited, such that only small transversal strips of the high resistance ink contribute to the stretch effect. The stretch is effected by bending the sensor; one side of the sensor will stretch (a little bit) whilst the other side will compress (a little bit). Unfortunately the ink is far more sensitive to stretch than to compression, hence the unidirectionality. This non-linear behaviour extends into ca. the first 15 degrees of the sensitive direction. Beyond that the resistance changes linearly with the angle and ranges from ca. 100 kOhm to 500 kOhm. In order to avoid this non-linearity it is advisable to employ some sort of pre-loading of the sensor, i.e. to have the sensor flexed, although the joint is actually straight. The angular range of a sensor is more than enough for unidirectional angle measurement of almost any human joint. For bidirectional joint movements it is necessary to join two PG sensors back to back. The sensor is by no means calibrated, so that each sensor has its own angle vs. resistance relationship.
I'm feeling over 9000 right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» cutterhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:29am
cutterhead
Coolness: 131725
again


Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:30am
what are these TUBES then you talked about ? where argueing for nothing , substrate or film are common switcheroo in the industry
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:32am
» Screwhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 8:32am from 74.57.157.150
screwhead
Coolness: 206134

Originally Posted By CUTTERHEAD

erik, read on how the powerglove worked.

they were long strip of metal, and when the finger bented the resisor changed,

Avtually, it was little flexible tubes filled with ink that changed resistance when it was bent.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
in the text it says its metal coated ??? and so in real life
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:33am
improper interpretation of actually in your sentence , i was thought you were implying a correction
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:35am
before i get an other correction then the last picture i post the strips are on TOP of the hand not below... eessh
I'm feeling 4.5kw 240vrms 45a right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Screwhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:33am
screwhead
Coolness: 685720
weird, those pics look WAY different than the contents of the powerglove I took apart 14 years ago.
I'm feeling over 9000 right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» cutterhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:35am
cutterhead
Coolness: 131725
zzzzzz you just want to be rite , okay what ever i dont care

Troll
From Uncyclopedia, the content-free encyclopedia.
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“Kill, kill, kill, kill, kill the trolls! Look under the bridges that's where they hide.”

~ Bill Bailey on Trolls

““A "troll" is an anonymous coward to lurks in chat rooms and who has nothing better to do than hassle people with silly posts.””

~ Jack Thompson on wishing his WoW character was Troll Jesus rather than Orc Jesus.

“I DONT WANT TO BE A FUCKING SON OF A WHORE TROLL OR DRUID OR BLOODELF!!!!!!!!”

~ Crazy German Kid from YouTube on WoW

' Trolls are typically bitter descendants of the neanderthals who have never moved out of their parents' basements. Whilst searching the Caves of Caerbannog with Alyson Hannigan, Mother Maybelle Carter, and Lord Voldemort, I fought many a troll with my sword.

For an unknown reason, almost all trolls' right leg is longer than the other, causing them to lean to the left. (see photo for proof of this phenomenon.)

Trolls typically have their names tatooed on their ass (see backside of photo for proof of this phenomenon.)

Trolls are hard workers, but are only known to work in making Spazzstick, caffeinate lip balm. Many other people ask them to do other things, but those people are usually eaten.

One notable gang of trolls, the Finnish band Finntroll, are noted for their bloodlust, awesome music, and hatred of all Christians, humans, and people who work in any kind of kiosk. They really hate kiosks. No-one knows why, because, whenever the word "kiosk" is mentioned, they fly into a blinding rage, and within 30 minutese everyone within exactly 17.371miles is dead.

If you need to kill trolls, hunting them down, while there is not a clemency going on, looking under bridges is your best bet - thats where they hide.

And always remember...TROLLS ARE FUCKIN UGLY!!!

Section deleted because it sucked.
[edit] Cessation of trolling

Contrary to reasoning, the cessation of trolling also results in the cessation of lolling. These two internet memes blend not unlike some peanut butter and chocolate cups. "If there's a troll, there's a lol" is a popular phrase just invented for this sentence. This makes more sense than the incomplete and confusing entry that was here before someone fixed it. LOL

Seriously, how does one get a troll to shut up?

* throw a sheep over the bridge railing
* prove conclusively your sexual conquests of their biological ancestors
* Counter-arguments implementing unicorns, pixie dust and rainbows
* Find a link to something on freereuplic that supports the contrary view
* Feed it a gnome.

[edit] Troll Organisations

One of the most notorious troll organisation is "Penis Pump 4 Life' aka PP4L. It consists of 100-200 members from all over the world. Some of the members have been killed in real life for trolling online. PP4L is famous for starting online wars with opposition troll organisations such as GNAA , 4chan, Encyclopedia Dramatica, etc. PP4L main headquarters is in mumbai, India. Internet users can locate them on efnet, [ Irc.efnet.org ] #pp or #pp4l juped, msg pumper for info. They are one of the most powerful troll organsations in the world , Myspace , ytmnd , 4chan
[edit] Trolls Habitat

Trolls live everywhere where n00bs congregate. As they needs n00bs to live on, they keep a special place in their homes. Their homes harry is like bob the builder
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:36am
IM RICK JAMES, BITCH!!!!!!!!1111!
I'm feeling 4.5kw 240vrms 45a right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» Screwhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:41am
screwhead
Coolness: 685720
no, my memory may not be the greatest, but I took apart a powerglove when I was 14 and put it back together onto a regular glove, and wired it to a com-port myself. used Glove.r (I think that's what the driver was called) as a TSR to controll Wolfenstein.

I think I've actually got a powerglove still at my mother's that I never finished working on, I'll see if it's still there and take it apart just for you next time I go see her.
I'm feeling over 9000 right now..
Good [+1]Toggle ReplyLink» cutterhead replied on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:52am
cutterhead
Coolness: 131725
okay well good for you.

other people have done the same too, congrats to eveybody.

everybody wins.... yeee

i trashed mine, i wanted to keep it no matter what but when you move 11 time in a 2 year periode you ten to send shit overboard.

but before i took some fingers apart and they were as large as the top square of the "inbetween" knuckles.

when i trashed it , i just xacto the whole thing up again, and saw nothing more that long metal plates
that were 8mm large about 3/4 finger long, they were very thin metal sheets layered one on top.

i keep lots of documentation on this and the power g even if i toss it to the garbage to al least have the data at hand, i still have the drivers and my mod plans to get rid of that shit triangle and use just the pickups instead.

as sealed as the sensors where in the finger, no drips ever occured, the coating was solidified like carbon contact. and some weird translucent skin was there almost like shrink wrap.

its a shame that i got rid of it, but today i would use 3d gyro sensors instead, and i do development
based on the virtual boy instead. not that i care about the laser in the eyes or combined image

but how the dual processor in there works in double diff code TO generate a binaural image.

nintendo is the best
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:57am
i have a version of the driver for linux written in c, you can find it easyly on the net, if you cant ill dig it up.

be carefull if you ever take a contact out, if they get the slightest line bent ill be fuck with that signature in the signal. can even stay shorted.

you can cut it by the side or the internal palm under knuckle and slide it from inside
Update » cutterhead wrote on Tue Oct 28, 2008 @ 10:58am
x acto will works wonders
I'm feeling 4.5kw 240vrms 45a right now..
Forget Standard Midi Controllers For Live Sets...
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